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I don't think we have a thread on this yet, but please school me on this upgrade

They're stronger than 1/2"...school's over.

Smartass!!!

LoL

Haha! Are you asking about install or value-of?

Install steps, what to look out for, what not to do...etc

Thank you for prompting for clarification

My questions would be. How much? And who local can do it?

Get em at napa, get longer than stock, remove you axel shafts, put em in a vise, beat the old studs out, and chase the existing holes( not as easy as it sounds). They have a straight knurl on them so with a set of calipers measure the minor diameter of the knurl ( go small enought to crush the knurled surface). Press them into the holes or beat them in with a brass punch and a bf hammer. Repeat for front hubs. Then chase all the holes in your wheels with a drill just over 5/8's. a little side note: some axel drive flanges don't have enough remaining material after drilling so replacement of the axel flanges would be necissary. I also wouldn't advise much larger than 5/8's as the remaining material on the hub flanges and axel flanges will not support it.

If you attempt it, I advise a silver&demming drill of the correct size with 3 flats on the shank of the drill, when drilling the drill bit snags like crazy causing the chuck of the drill to tear up the shank. A 3/8 chuck won't cut it either. I mill or a drill press is your best bet but I have done it with a hand drill.

I'm strongly opposed to using a hand drill. It''s very easy to skew the hole and/or go oversize. Even a slightly skewed hole can apply potentially damaging stress to the stud and flange when the wheel nut is torqued.

Look for a local Machine shop to do the work. There are specific tolerances on press diameters for knurls. Often times, engine Machine shops will be capable.

What's the benefits........ I get they add 15 horsepower, but what's the true need or benefit?

tcm glx wrote:What's the benefits........ I get they add 15 horsepower, but what's the true need or benefit?

That's dor another thread. This is just for the how, not the why.

The benefit is a double edged sword in my opinion... You get added strength of thicker studs, for the non hubcentric wheel users like most of us this sounds like a plus, BUT the removed material now moves the weakest link to the hub flange. Now all of this of course depends on the remaining material left before the flange edge. So me personally I'm not going to run them until I get my replacement rear end. I will order the axels with the correct flanges of 5/8. Now as far as a machine shop... Yes I completely agree positional and perpendicularity issues when drilling are important but me personally I think the stock flange would fail before the stud would shear. I think the holes would stretch the remaining material long before the stud shears I'm guessing the hole would be egg shaped an noticeable first. If a guy had a mill and a rotary table it would be strongly advised to use that over a wrist breaking hand drill anyday. I kinda think its like running 37's, ya you can do it, ya you can jump it but for how high and how long before flange failure. Just get hubcentric wheels or wheel spacers and call it a day. The hubcentric spacers will transfer the load off the studs and onto the shoulder doing the same effect as 5/8 studs on stock flanges.

As a general rule the "crush knurl" would be just over the minor diameter but still give the crush material a place to go. I'd consult the machinist handbook for exact sizing. Me personally I got no idea what size. There's many companies out there that make hubcentric spacers in .100 thick over the studs but a 1/2 or 3/4 shoulder for the rim to transfer the load. Oem rims ride on the hub not the studs. Yes there's a very important reason for this. Hope it clarifies.

yikes wrote:I'm strongly opposed to using a hand drill. It''s very easy to skew the hole and/or go oversize. Even a slightly skewed hole can apply potentially damaging stress to the stud and flange when the wheel nut is torqued.

Look for a local Machine shop to do the work. There are specific tolerances on press diameters for knurls. Often times, engine Machine shops will be capable.

This is why I would rather consult a professions

Oops professional. Damn no edit

crisis88 wrote:My questions would be. How much? And who local can do it?

Price could vary greatly from one shop to another, depending on their knowledge, capability and capacity. Any shop with a mill and a DRO can indicate them in and set up a hole pattern in minutes. I would say $7-$10 a hole. There's a shop near me that I'm sure can do them if you're interested Jose.

It is possible to use threaded, rather than press-in studs on flanges with diameters too small to support a press (speaking to rear axles). I did this on a set with good success. Once again, not something you do manually, as skewed threads are unforgiving and diametrical fits are critical to secure the stud. I chose to tack them after torquing as added insurance.

In a situation like Robert has, where wheels are already prep'd for 5/8, the above would be an acceptable alternative so he can get them mounted without breaking the bank. The objective in this case is not to achieve baller status, but just get some wheels on. Correct me if I'm wrong Robert.

So this came about because I picked up a set of 5 APP Starbursts that were on Jesse James' prerunner...

If the solution is too involved I may throw these on a shelf for a while or pass them along ...